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Fish Tank Forum • View topic - Breeding Angelfish
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Breeding Angelfish

Planning on breeding fish or already breeding them.

Breeding Angelfish

Postby Mick » Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:20 pm

One of the most popular species of Angelfish available are the scalares and these are the ones that have the most success with tank breeding, rather than the Altums or Leopoldi. They are very difficult to sex, to obtain a breeding pair it is best to purchase six juvenile fish and let them pair up naturally. One way of spotting a male is the ammount of aggression he displays when guarding his territory from other fish, females tend to be less domnant.
Of course it is possible to purchase a breeding pair but they will come more expensive than the average Angelfish.

Scalares will not be ready to breed until they reach a size of 2 inches, this is when they will start to pair off. When you are sure you have a pair, they will need moving to a breeding tank. I have always used the 18" cubed tanks for this purpose with great results. All you need to add is a heater, sponge filter, and a breeding cone or a piece of slate leant against the side of the tank.

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When the pair are in there, start feedimg them with live or frozen foods to condition them and raise the water temp to 28-29 degC. Do not overfeed the fish and 5 mins after feeding syphon out any uneaten food. Cleanliness is the key here so I never added any form of substrate to aid the tank maintenance.

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The first signs that the fish are about to spawn will be the fish cleaning a site, this is where they will lay their eggs, they will probably start grooming each other as well. Their papilla will start showing near the anal fins. The females will be larger and blunter than the males, if these are showing , spawning is imminent.

The female will lay the eggs in long vertical lines, closely followed by the male who will fertilise them.Closely check the eggs over the next couple of days, any white ones will be unfertilised or have developed a fungus. The parent fish should remove these from the spawning site but to prevent fungus developing add a drop of methylene blue to the tank water.

At this stage smoe breeders will remove the parents incase they eat their eggs but I preffered to let them stay with the first batch, just to give them the chance to prove they were good parents. If they did start eating the eggs any future batches would be artificially reared.

After 48 hours the fry tails should be visible in the eggs and a day later , the fry should be completely visible, still attached to the spawning site with their yolk sacs. There is no need to feed the fry at this stage as they will consume their yolk sacs before needing any other nourishment.

A few days later, the fry should be free swimming, now is the time to feed them 3-4 times per day. For this I used Infusoria and newly hatched brine shrimp, carefully syphoning out any uneaten food.
Regular daily water changes are also needed but be careful not to syphon out any fry.

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